Looks like something broke with the intake tempature sensor in my afm. Have not found if there is a fix for it.
Manual says should read between 2,000-3,000 resistance. But am getting nothing when i test the pins.
This video was a help in this process.
——EDIT——-
What I found out is that I am an idiot and put the multimeter into the wrong setting for that particular test. Needed to be on 20K no 2k… back to the drawling board
If you are light on the throttle it seems to go up the rpms quicker than if you just WOT. it get sluggish / bogs when the engine noise gets deeper.
Have been fighting a fuel issue with my FC RX7. After changing the fuel filter and no improvement I purchased fuel strainer / sock that attaches to the fuel pump.
Located the harness to relieve pressure in the fuel system. Found along the left rear strut tower. Start the car, disconnect the plug and car runs out of fuel. Then just open the gas cap and the system is completely depressurized. Get the cover off to access the fuel pump and find the mounting screws are nasty, real Nasty.
These 8 crews looked like crap from the start so I was cautious in removal. I used plenty of pb blaster and downward force and still stripped two of these.
Options for extraction gets a little hairy when a spark would cause an explosion.
Was able to notch a slit in the screw with a chisel for removal with a flat headed screw driver. What a relief this was.
It was a nice day out today.. It all started with rotating my tires, then I thought to my self, well I have the hack out.. Might as well install these mounts that have been sitting in my garage for almost a year.
Last year I purchased Group-N Engine and transmission mounts to put in the car, got the transmission one in and with accidental knee injury I never got around to putting the motor mounts in.
Today it was near 70 deg out and was enough motivation to get the task accomplished.
Lessons learned.
The rear bolts on the Mount are frustrating to get out. I had to pb blaster and use a box wrench as I see no way possible that a socket could be used.
In the process of slightly shifting the engine to gain access to the rear mount bolts I am speaking about above, I had shifted the engine that was fighting me from falling back into the subframe. I had to drop into the chat at rs25 to get advise on better way to approach it. Was recommended to disconnect the pitch stop mount(mount under air box that connects transmission to the firewall) then support the transmission with a jack, and rock the engine into place. This worked out perfect for me.
The butt test showed that these removed all the “slack” when going between heavy acceleration to no acceleration.
The first unit I got updated to a non exploitable version so it needed to be returned defective. Besides who would want a computer that upgrades without your permission.
Now I need to carefully go from android 2.1 to 3.2 without putting the thing on the network.
Should be worth it in the end, fingers crossed in the meantime.
—Success—
Takes a good beer to reconcile the start of the week.
